June 02, 2024 3 min read

As a tailor specializing in custom suits, I often encounter clients who are curious about the intricacies of fabric selection. One question that frequently arises is the significance of thread count. In this article, I'll shed light on how thread count impacts the quality and feel of a fabric, and why it's an essential consideration when crafting a bespoke suit.

What is Thread Count? 

Thread count refers to the number of threads woven into one square inch of fabric. It is calculated by adding the number of vertical (warp) and horizontal (weft) threads. For example, a fabric with 100 vertical threads and 100 horizontal threads per square inch would have a thread count of 200.

The Misconception: Higher Thread Count Equals Better Quality 

A common misconception is that a higher thread count automatically equates to better quality fabric. While thread count can influence the feel and durability of a fabric, it's not the sole determining factor. In fact, some fabrics with a lower thread count may be of higher quality due to the use of premium fibers and superior weaving techniques.

The Importance of Fiber Quality 

When assessing the quality of a fabric, the type and quality of the fibers used are just as important as the thread count. High-quality natural fibers such as wool, cashmere, and silk are renowned for their softness, durability, and drape. These fibers can create excellent fabrics even with lower thread counts.

In the world ofcustom suits, wool is the most common fiber choice. Wool fabrics with a thread count between 100 and 150 are often ideal for suits, as they provide a balance of breathability, durability, and a pleasant texture. Super fine wool fabrics, such as Super 120s or Super 150s, have a higher thread count and offer a luxuriously smooth feel, but may be more delicate and require extra care.

The Role of Weaving Techniques 

The way a fabric is woven also plays a crucial role in its quality and performance. Skilled weavers can create fabrics with lower thread counts that surpass the quality of those with higher thread counts. Techniques such as twill weave, herringbone, and hopsack can add depth, texture, and durability to a fabric, even with a moderate thread count.

At our tailoring studio, we carefully select fabrics based on a combination of thread count, fiber quality, and weaving techniques. We work with trusted mills that have a proven track record of producing exceptional fabrics, ensuring that each custom suit we create meets our high standards of quality and craftsmanship.

The Importance of Balance 

While thread count is an important consideration, it should not be the sole focus when selecting a fabric for your custom suit. A balanced approach that takes into account thread count, fiber quality, and weaving techniques will result in a fabric that looks and feels exceptional, while also providing the durability and performance required for a well-made suit.

As a tailor, I always recommend that my clients prioritize the overall quality and feel of a fabric rather than fixating on thread count alone. By considering the various factors that contribute to a fabric's excellence, we can create custom suits that not only look impeccable but also stand the test of time.

In the realm ofcustom tailoring, thread count is just one piece of the puzzle when it comes to selecting the perfect fabric for a suit. While a higher thread count can indicate a finer and smoother fabric, it's essential to consider the quality of the fibers and the weaving techniques employed. By working with a skilled tailor who understands the nuances of fabric selection, you can ensure that your custom suit is crafted from a material that embodies the perfect balance of luxury, durability, and style.