March 12, 2020 4 min read

What makes a custom suit worth the investment

Runi Willner President of Gage Court Clothiers, a local Baltimore based custom menswear company discusses the value of a custom suit and educates buyers on what to look for in the suit buying process. Whether never having bought a custom suit in the past or a seasoned buyer, learn how to maximize your next suit buying experience.

Question 1: Why did you start Gage Court Clothiers?

Answer: The reason I started Gage Court Clothiers was to provide men with an exceptionally tailored custom garment at an affordable price. Before I started the company, I had a hard time finding a great quality suit. Even when the quality was on point, many times I would get sold on garments that weren’t of much use to me personally and would sit in my closet without much wear.

Gage Court Clothiers provides a solution to this problem by operating with full transparency and exceptional customer service. Before making a purchase we educate the buyer on exactly what he is purchasing and how it will suit his needs. We want each suit to be a long term investment and the clients favorite suit in his closet.

Our Process

What separates Gage Court Clothiers from other companies is our suit buying process. We understand men don’t enjoy shopping but love looking good. We start by coming out to your home, office or desired location. Next, our clothiers are trained to simplify the suit buying process by asking clients specific questions to understand the purpose of the garments use and guide him into the perfect suit for his specific need. Each garment is produced with top of the line tailoring and created with fabrics sourced from designer mills across Europe and usually takes 6 - 8 weeks for production. Included in the process our clothiers provide multiple fittings before a final product is delivered to obtain the perfect fit. We continue the relationships with our clients after the sale and ensure the client is completely satisfied with the garment.

Question 2: What are the benefits of a custom suit?


1) Fit - 90% of people don’t have a standard body type, only a custom garment will complement a man's silhouette and give them that “perfectly tailored” look each man desires. The downside of an off the rack suit is that some parts of the suit can’t be altered and won’t give that “perfectly tailored look”. Most individuals will need a custom suit in order to fit their body perfectly.

2) Quality - with a custom suit you can ensure a proper quality fabric for the outer look and a well tailored full canvassed garment on the inside which will last longer than any off the rack suit. 

3) Service - Our Clothiers come to your location and take care of every detail from the creation of a garment through every fitting. We provide exceptional customer service to our clients along the process and make sure they are 100% satisfied with their garment upon completion.

4) Style - Choose from thousands of different details and style options. Get something that stands out as opposed to being limited from an off the rack garment.

Question 3: When meeting with a clothier to buy a custom suit what are the most important things I should make sure is included in my suit? 

Answer : 

1) Full Canvas - Canvas is usually made of horsehair and put in the interlining of the suit between the fabric and the lining. Canvas increases the durability of a suit and prevents bubbling or pimpleing in the fabric, as well as giving the suit a shape causing it to drape naturally over the chest and body as opposed to looking stiff and lifeless. 

When a suit doesn’t have canvas it is called “fused” which means the suit panels are glued together. Over time heat from the dry cleaners will cause the glue to evaporate and thus causing bubbling in the fabric, mainly by the lapel and the bottom of the jacket. 

2) Fabric Thread Count - Higher fabric counts are usually more expensive, but DO NOT think that because you spent more money buying a higher thread count you are getting a suit which will last you longer. In fact, the less expensive, lower thread count suits are more durable and will last you longer. A higher thread count means the suit will be woven tighter and thinner and will wear quicker if worn a lot. Instead, opt for a suit between 110’s to 130’s thread count if you wear your suit more than 4 or 5 times a year. Make sure the fabric is also from a reputable mill and you are buying from a trustworthy source to ensure the fabric itself is of good quality.

3) An experienced tailor - An expert Tailor or Clothier will know what to look out for and how to fit every different body type. Not only will just your measurements alone be taken but different variables will be assessed such as posture and fit preferences must be taken into account as well. A good tailor will usually ask the client questions to understand variables such as if the client prefers a slim or classic fit, What the client will be wearing the garment to and studying body postures etc. to be 100% sure the client will love his new garment.